Java Trip: How are the Former Cosmopolitan Face of Cirebon Now

I and my college university had long dreamed big journey around Java. 4 years after graduate on 2012 on the day of first Suro we make the trip. This journey was made by using the strong Mitsubishi Kuda of Suryadi Hidayat. We were seven people on this car, with Radix, Albert, Franky, Ana and Santi plus Pandu the host in Magelang. We withstand the 1.000 km circle around west and central java accompany with hot, rain, traffic jams and ton of fun! Let's go with my word on the perpetual journey on the history and our own journey

Kereta Kencana: The carriage for the Sultan

Bandung- Cirebon

Bandung is the capital of West Java is a young and energetic cosmopolitan of my home town. My friends are my collage Atmajaya friend, they've came from Jakarta to Bandung in the morning. I was waiting in my home with my high school friend and her friend Ana and Santi.

The Handsome boy on Candi Bentar, the gate of keraton

On 9 O'clock the car is arrived and on the first day our route is Bandung- Cirebon - Semarang. This journey is about 370 km, on the north of Java. The road on the north of Java is called pantura ( north of the sea), this road is historic road made by Deandels on colonial period of 1809. This Deandels marked the road as the post road, this strategic road connect northern strong port from Anyer on the West Java into Panarukan on the East Java.

Old Cirebon Map

On the way to Cirebon we pass Cadas Pangeran on 14 km southwest of Sumedang. Today this road is infamous for a lot of turn and big loads car as casualty because of the heat of machine. At the construction of the road, many local people die because of the slippery and the rock condition. Deandels was confronted by the local prince called the prince of Kornel. Deandels thought it was nice welcome by the local royal, but the prince bring kris on the left hand and threatened Deandels if somebody dead of his people and the head of Deandels will end in this sword. This confrontation end up with war and eventually win by the colonial. The brave prince was commemorated in this road.

On the way of laughter about love life high school, remembering the good times about crushing the girl, talk about the road we take on the future and also about my mind wandering around the road. For me, talking and reflecting into the road and small village is something very interesting. My memory and also the memory of place sometimes met in some point on of the journey. And finally after about five hours of the road we've came to Cirebon, the hometown of Albertus.

Cirebon

Albertus talk about life in this sleepy port town of Cirebon, about how he grew up here and how slow the development of the city. This city was great and grand city about 500 years ago, and have metropolitan style. Coastal and port city are the meeting point between traders, on the highest point of Sultanate Cirebon the city host trader from Arab, China, and Europe.  Because of conflict with the Mataram and Banten Kingdom, this Cirebon started to decline and disintegrate in 1677.

Balinese Style of Bale in Keraton

Keraton Kasepuhan

We came to the palace once before the Dutch occupation called Keraton Kasepuhan. This gives me the impression of Balinese Building in the gate, they have Candi Bentar on the red brick. Interestingly they put European ceramic on the gate, and inside they have big Dragon protector as in China. The well preserved palace was built in 1452 with excited and unique architecture.

Very silent but strong aura in the hall

One symbol that always stuck  in my mind was cloud. This kingdom placed itself on the sky, above the cloud. The cloud is never ceased, block the view of the sky and this picture some of doubt in mind. But above the sky, the mind is transcendent and have clear sky, the motif batik of the cloud called Megamendung. This motif can be found Cirebon and even in the building. Cloud motif makes you like floating around and it feel light. 

Cloudy cloudy Cirebon

Have you ever see the delima fruit to symbolize 5 pillar of Islam, the order of Roman on doric pillar, ceramic full of Bible story, and have lotus of Avalokitesvara. This highly cultured people was very dynamic, they took every aspect of culture they know and embraced it in truly Javanese style. Read Babad Tanah Jawi, and Indonesia face is always underneath and the face of the people is always changing by the age.  The difference that always being part of Indonesia is there to enrich the soul of people.

The Bird symbolize peace

Food is delicious and Cheap

The food of Cirebon is describe by delicious and cheap. Famous Tahu Gejrot can be found everywhere in west Java. Nasi Jamblang have variety of food and even how greedy you are its very hard to spend 50.000 rupiah. We came to one of Nasi Jamblang stall and I only spend 12.000 rupiah for the meat and various other food!

This sleepy town once boomed in 1960's because of oil and somehow never be a big city. 1990's the rattan was makes this city prosperous until the emergence of China. With new toll road from Jakarta or Bandung straight to Cirebon and many reconstruction on historical site this once metropolitan wait new era of prosperous.