Papandayan Impression

Mount Papandayan lie in the heart of Parahyangan Land, the fertile land of volcano. It’s been an obsession to get to know to the ancient of my homeland in Bandung. My experience in Papandayan gives strong impression about ancient time in Bandung, it was lush green forest and so sacred. Here is my impression about Papandayan:

1. It is alive with active crater

Papandayan crater is still active, her inner heat exhale smoke sulphur. Papandayan last eruption was on 2002, huge rock was scattered all around. The place was treeless, full with white color of rock. This is the first scenery and feeling about Papandayan, her lungs still breathing and her heart’s still beating.

2. Have wonderful neighbour  Mount Cikuray

Right across Papandayan, there is a mount Cikuray which is higher and can be seen beautifully. Arrive in the dusk of morning, we can see it clearly the 2.820 meter high mountain which is higher than Papandayan. Here is the mosaic of the sky compose with tree and the dusk of morning sunshine.

3. The 2.666 meter mountain have twin peak, Papandayan and Puntang

The eruption in 1772 shape the contour of mountain like now days. The volcano shape into broad flat area with alun-alun in the middle and twin peak which is called as Papandayan and the other as Mount Puntang. The vast alun-alun called pondok salada where the hikers camp on the night here.

4. Dead forest of Papandayan

Yes, the eruption from 2002 create an interesting landscape. Vast of dead tree create a landscape of a dead forest. The tree trunk and grey color of volcano ash give an mystical impression of this place. It was raining and mist all around, with the fragrant scent of the land is a perfect place to connect with the mountain soul.

5. Edelweiss meadow in Tegal Alun

Located as just 200 metre from the peak, after hard time hiking finally the vast place filled with edelweiss meadow. Rain was so hard at that time, we missed the view around Tegal Alun. Anyway, the edelweiss meadow itself is still amazing. Edelweiss is perennial flowers and only able to grow big in the mountain heights and require full sun.

6.  Wonderful scenery on Goeberhut

We camped at Goeberhut, the flat land conjunction between with Tegal Alun and Tegal Panjang. It stand beside a lush tropical forest. However, the wild boars was annoying us. The wild boars are already adapted and their diet are human food. So be wary with the food you bring, they sneak to our camp when we left there.

7. Scenic savanna on Tegal Panjang

Tegal Panjang is scenic savanna which is placed between Garut and Pangalengan. Around this vast savanna, there are big and tall tree all around. It is a magical place, where fire always blaze it when the thatch start to grow higher and taller. This place is often to be visited by animal likes deer, tiger and bull.

8. Lush and green tropical forest

It was so happy just to breath the fresh air. When we left Goberhut to Tegal Panjang, we get through the tropical forest. The forest is already old, the tree high is about 20 meter high. Inside the forest, live can be seen all around. This place also habitat for lutung, the Javanese monkey, and various tiger.

9. Pass through dwarf forest

Not only high and old tree, all around Papandayan also inhabited with elfin forest. Elfin forest which also known as pygmy forest or dwarf forest is a rare ecosystem featuring miniature tree. It is quite hard to pass through the dwarf forest, the vines is sharp and located between the path. The shape of tree itself already bending all over which gave an interesting another shape of nature.

10. It’s been commercialised by private company

I am wondering how this mountain have already been rent by private company for 45 years. The price for entering the mountain is 65.000 IDR, and we found out many warung inside the mountain. Some ugly warung is clearly not giving the best scenery but makes hiking easy as we can buy food or drink almost anywhere from the entrance path until camping ground. Wander from the camping ground a little and the wild side of Papandayan is still pristine.

11. Witness the force of nature

On our way back to car park, the rain was pouring so hard. We pass through path as if we pass many river. Once I left some small river, suddenly it became a big river. Luckily none of us was there, the flow became so swift. In that hard time, we made man rope and all of us back to home.

12. We are with wonderful People

Dedi our guide is a wonderful people. The 70 years old of Dedi already 26 years accompany hiker to see the beauty of Papandayan Nature. I am also with 16 people who I just knew but going with wonderful experience together.

Our Itinerary

We start journey from Bandung on early morning at 3.30 AM. It almost 2 and half hour to Camp David where journey started. Our route is going through all away crater to Gober Hut on about 2 hours. It is about another 3 hour to go Tegal Alun via dead forest and Pondok Salada and back to camp. Be wary at route in dead forest, there is no clear path to Tegal Alun the official obliged us to accompany with guide. In the 7 AM of the morning we went to Tegal Panjang via dwarf forest and tropical forest, and get there about 3 hours. And another 5 hour walk to go all the way back. My suggestion is going from Pangalengan to Garut so you don’t have to walk to same area. Here is my suggestion:

Day 1 : Pangalengan - Tegal Panjang - Goberhut. It takes about 6 hour to finish this trek

Day 2: Sunrise @ Goberhut- Dead Forest- Tegal Alun- Crater - Garut. It takes another 6 hours walk. And on Garut you can go to Cipanas for hot spring.